Horsehair Chest Canvas

A high quality canvas is one of the most important aspects of a jacket. Canvas in a jacket will mold to its user, creating an even more perfect fitting jacket. A high quality canvas is constructed of horse hair, wool canvas and flannel.

Layer Padding Construction

Take a look at all those layers. This is how you know your jacket is true quality.

Hand Rolled Lapels

Inspect the lapels on the jacket. If they are pressed closed to the chest the jacket is poorly constructed. You want to see a nice soft roll of the lapel.

Soft Natural Shoulder

The days of a large padded shoulder are gone. Look for a soft shoulder that contours to your body creating a more natural look.

Hand-sewn Buttonholes

This is a detail that will set a jacket apart from majority of the suits out there. The machine buttoned hole is perfectly uniform and will not have any life to it.

Milanese Buttonholes

The Milanese buttonhole is created by placing a larger thread (a gimp) around the buttonhole and then hand sewing a silk thread around the gimp. What makes this buttonhole such a work of art is that the tension must be consistent all the way around the gimp. If the threads are over tightened or under tightened the gimp will buckle. The gimp must be removed and the tailor will start over. The Milanese buttonhole requires over an hour to construct.

Functioning Sleeve Buttonholes

See if the jacket actually has button holes on the sleeve. Majority of retail and made to measure jackets have fake button holes on their jackets with a button attached to give the illusion of an actual button hole. Unbuttoning the last button on your sleeve is an esoteric nod to those already in the bespoke community.

Shank Buttoning

Inspect how the buttons are sewn on. If they are flat to the jacket rest assured that they have be sewed on by a machine.

Buffalo Horn Buttons

Horn buttons are more expensive but are far more durable than plastic buttons.The subtle variations in color can really add a nice bit of character to a solid colored suit.

Reinforced Button Backing

This is a quick and easy thing to check to see if there has been care while constructing the suit. If the button is only attached to the fabric rest assured that the garment was made with every cost cutting measure available.

Boutonniere Loop

This is another quick check you can make to see if the details matter to the company constructing the suit.

Inner Lining

Ask if the lining is made of a breathable material, preferably bemberg. Wool is one of the most breathable fabrics available. Don’t negate all of its properties by putting a plastic bag on the inside of your jacket.

Inner Pockets

We have six pockets on the inside of our jackets. There’s a pocket for your cell phone, your wallet, your keys, your headphones, and whatever else you carry. Please don’t use the front pockets of your suit jacket (unless you have patch pockets).

Reinforced Inner Pockets

Inspect how the pockets are attached. If there isnt a tack stitch the quality is not there.

Sweat Guards

Nobody wants to be the guy sweating through his suit jacket.

Bemberg Lining

Bemberg is what replaced silk in jackets. It is more durable and more breathable. It is a must have in your jacket.

Sleeve Work

Inspect how the sleeves are attached. Hand sewn sleeve heads gives you more flexibility over sleeves that were machine sewn.

Hand-stitched Turned Back Collar

Another quick quality check.

Built-in Pocket Round

You never now when you want a little personality to show.

Hand Picked Stitching

This is a definite staple of a bespoke suit. Much like the working buttonholes, mass produced suits have tried to imitate this but will never be able to replicate the real thing.